Droit au but. Direct to goal. Wherever you go in Marseille, there’s no escaping the phrase that adorns the logo of the established top-flight team, Olympique. It’s all over the walls in a city where soccer graffiti seems to be the unofficial décor, a sky blue and white color scheme that peps up weathered Mediterranean house-fronts. It seems like every second native wears a replica shirt. The team is as much a part of the town’s identity as its vibrant port and its aromatic soaps.

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